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If you really want to get away, but don’t want to whip out your passport, head to the province of Batanes and visit Itbayat, the northernmost point in the Philippines that still has people living there.
Many people visit Batanes for many reasons: to see the old stone houses in Sabtang and the picturesque lighthouses amid the rugged coastline of Batan, to get a taste of coconut crabs or simply to observe cattle grazing on the undulating hills.
But less than 10% of the people who visit Batanes dare to venture way up north to the town ofItbayat.
Here are three reasons why:
1. The waves getting there are gigantic.
Sandwiched between Balintang and Bashi Channels, two of the most treacherous bodies of water in the country, a smooth boat ride to Itbayat is probably the last thing you’ll experience. For the easily seasick traveler, this is a pretty solid reason not to soldier on.
2. You may get stranded on the island for days.
If ginormous waves, which jolt the sea, aren’t fun enough, typhoons are known to frequent Batanes. Expect cold stormy winds if you go between November and February and be prepared to be stranded on the island as part of your travel itinerary.
3. It’s expensive getting in, out and around the island.
Imagine how far a can of sardines from General Santos has to travel to reach Itbayat. Think of the risk a cargo ship takes just to deliver supplies to Basco and for smaller boats to bring these goods from Basco to Itbayat.
This means things in Itbayat are expensive.
To give you an idea, a day tour around Itbayat Island will cost a person ₱2,000 per day – this includes the guide and the motorcycle rental. Make that ₱3,000 if you are a group renting a tricycle. Homestays charge ₱200 per meal which translates to ₱600 for 3 meals not including snacks.
This might be affordable for some travelers, but for others, it might not be. Especially since you’re also shelling out money to tour around Batan and Sabtang.
Itbayat, Batanes: For the True Philippine Explorer
If the above reasons made you yawn, then read on. You’re one hardcore traveler which makes Itbayat a must-visit for you.
If you’re now having second thoughts though, definitely still read on and learn why it still might be worth the trip.
The entire island of Itbayat is believed to be an uplifted coral reef, and one would easily notice this onboard a plane or a boat. The whole island is surrounded by sharp limestone cliffs, and not a single beach can be found along its coast!
A tour of the island normally begins with a visit to Torongan Cave — a wide chamber that opens to the sea. Archaeologists believe that it served as the primary gateway for our Austronesian ancestors to enter Batanes. An uphill trail beside the cave will lead you to a spot where 90′s kids will be reminded of Westlife’s “My Love” music video.
Stone houses surround the Itbayat town proper where the simple yet attractive Sta. Maria Imaculada Church can be found.
Did you know that the very first houses in Itbayat were purely made of cogon grass?
A short motorcycle ride to Barangay Raele, Yawran and Varayvayan will let you see these cogon houses, the “older” old houses of Batanes.
To help defend against typhoons, locals decided to strengthen their homes by using corals and boulders adhered by lime.
But to see the most breathtaking views of Itbayat, you have to squeeze a little more effort.
Mavulis IslandItbayat, Batanes
A 5-hour boat ride from Pagganaman Port transports a brave soul to Mavulis, the northernmost and most picturesque island of Itbayat.
A volcanic island dominated by basaltic peaks, dressed in pistachio-colored grasses and shrubs, Mavulis is host to a good stretch of white pebbly beach where basking under the sun will give a sense of triumph; it’s the Philippines’ northernmost beach!
Siayan IslandItbayat, Batanes
Pretend you’re a character from the Lord of the Rings by spending a night in another volcanic island called Siayan Island. Here, a prominent volcanic plug dominates the landscape, with cows freely grazing on the hill slopes. Expect these bovines to be your only company throughout the night.
How To Get to Itbayat
In order to get to Itbayat, you have to fly to Basco first.
Basco is located on Batan Island, the second largest island among the Batanes Islands. Basco has a domestic airport, Basco Airport, one of two airports in Batanes.
From Manila to Basco
There are currently two airlines operating the Manila-Basco route from NAIA: PAL Express and SkyJet Airlines. PAL Express flies to Basco daily while SkyJet Airlines flies M/W/F.
From Basco to Itbayat
By plane: Northsky Air flies passengers to Itbayat and vice versa every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Travel time is 10 minutes and costs ₱1,875 one-way. Contact Northsky at +63 949-155-0100 / +63 920-965-1495 for reservations.
By boat: Three passenger boats leave Basco for Itbayat between 3:00 AM to 6:00 AM Monday to Saturday: Veronica, Itranza, and Ocean Spirit.
Travel time is between 3 to 5 hours. Fare is ₱450 one-way.
What To Eat
Lobster!
Coconut Crab!
More lobsters and coconut crabs!
Where To Stay in Itbayat
Nanay Cano Homestay located in Itbayat town proper, only ₱200 per person per night. +63 919-300-4787.
Getting Around
Contact Jojo, the most trusted guide in Itbayat, +63 920-660-3801. He can arrange for motorcycle, tricycle and truck rentals if you’re a big group. Guide fee is ₱1,000 per day.
Going to Mavulis and Siayan
First, have enough courage to brave the big waves! Once you’ve gathered enough courage, gather enough cash since a boat rental to Mavulis with an overnight stay in Siayan will cost around ₱7,000 for a boat that accommodates up to 5 people. Contact Nanay Cano as she also has the contact details of boat owners.
Lastly, enjoy and take care! The more effort it takes, the more fulfilling it gets!
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